Since its opening in 1992, under the management of Balázs Csapody, Kistücsök has been undisputedly one of the highest quality restaurants on the Balaton. Its impeccable cuisine not only attracts people from the area, but year after year more and more gastro-tourists from all over the world come to visit. Always excellent Hungarian ingredients, family hospitality and the best Hungarian wines - that's Kistücsök.
I think there are two kinds of people in the restaurant world. The owner and the restaurateur. Balázs Csapody is clearly one of the latter, and his passion for gastronomy has not diminished in the last three decades. He started his career in catering as a 20-year-old schoolboy and is now one of the biggest names in the business, including President of the Pannon Gastronomic Academy, Vice-President of the Hungarian Bocuse d'Or Academy and winner of countless awards. Although I've had the pleasure of being a guest at Kistücsök several times, I was excited to meet him and see what was on my plate this time.
The Cricket is history
Since the late 1800s, the restaurant in Balatonszemes has always been a catering establishment in one form or another, sometimes as a restaurant, sometimes as a pub. In 1992 Balázs rented the restaurant and in 1997 he bought it. Since then, he could have chosen to sit back, but says it's not an option. „We're constantly evolving to keep up with demand. In 2011, both the restaurant and the kitchen underwent a complete refurbishment, making the former more airy and comfortable and the latter more modern. Last year, we successfully opened our 4-star hotel with 19 rooms, 2 suites, an outdoor pool and a relaxation area. We are increasingly hosting corporate and private events, and we try to cater for everyone,” he says. Also opened last year, a „chef's room”, a curiosity in the area and perhaps in the country, where the kitchen and tables are in one space, without separation, so guests can chat informally with the chefs about food, wine and gastronomy. With a capacity for up to 20 people, it's worth booking early as exclusive dinners are becoming increasingly popular.
Hungarian and Balaton ingredients, only from the best
The basic concept of the kitchen has not changed much since the beginning. Balázs' main goal is to present the Somogy county and the Lake Balaton area ízeit. Around 60% of the ingredients used in the dishes are sourced from local small-scale producers, a number that grows every year. „It's fantastic to see more and more people moving to Lake Balaton to engage in quality farming or animal husbandry. But also the number of people who want to cheese making and several artisan bakeries have opened nearby. I believe we will soon become one of the most attractive gastronomic destinations in Central Europe.” They are currently in contact with nearly 50-70 suppliers, including Matusz-Vad.
No one should leave here hungry!
The menu of the Little Cricket is both traditional and innovative. While you can find classics such as goulash soup, chicken stew or duck legs with cabbage and cvekedli, they also have seasonal offerings that showcase the flavours of the region. And what made my heart beat faster was the vegan offer. I would have thought that a self-respecting restaurant today would be as creative in serving its vegetarian guests as its meat eaters, yet there are still a painful number of places that manage to pull it off with the familiar grilled goat cheese plus salad combination. Here, however, they are treated to a 4-course menu straight away. For me, it was the bulgur-stuffed capicum peppers, accompanied by a roasted red pepper sauce of quite incredible colour. Ladies and gentlemen, this is the perfect meat-free dish! The bulgur stuffing is a real flavour bomb thanks to the many different green herbs, and the sauce is superlative. It's also correct in terms of portion, yet it's not uncomfortably filling, which is a big advantage in the summer heat. Anyone who says that you can't live well without meat should dial the restaurant's phone number!
No greater accolade for regulars
When I ask Balázs what he is most proud of, apart from the countless awards and accolades, he mentions without hesitation the regulars, who account for 90% of their turnover. „There's no better feeling than when people bring their kids here who grew up right in front of me. We have families who have been regular visitors for over 20 years. I have always wanted people who live here, have a holiday home or boat here, or are lovers of Lake Balaton to come here. Of course, everyone is welcome, but it's the regulars who make this place really likeable. Travelling the world, I've always been a fan of Italian hospitality. I wanted a casual restaurant with a good atmosphere, and I think I've achieved that.”
(528) „I love to see the flavours of Lake Balaton on my plate” - 30 years of Kistücsök - YouTube
Address: Cricket Restaurant - Food & Room****
8636 Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 25.
