Kollázs - Brasserie & Bar in Budapest has been an iconic gastronomic venue of the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace since its opening in 2015. Born from the meeting of classic French bistro flair and Hungarian culinary tradition, the restaurant has become a major player in the capital's hospitality scene in recent years, and its Michelin 2024 award proves that Kollázs is of a consistently high standard. We talked to Árpád Győrffy, Executive Chef of Kollázs, about the restaurant's past, present and culinary concept.
How did you start your career in hospitality and what stages led you to Kollázs?
I was originally going to be a pilot, so hospitality was not part of my plans. The turning point was my grandfather, who was passionate about cooking and took me to a gastronomic event. A conversation there gave me an opportunity at the Alabardos restaurant, where I ended up working for nine years. I knew from the first days that this was my path and I spent my apprenticeship here, which was a huge advantage in my later career. From there I went abroad and after the Golden Caviar I joined Kollázs in 2015.
How long have you been part of the Collage team and what role do you play in the restaurant's operations?
In 2015, I started as a restaurant chef when the restaurant opened, where I had the opportunity to be involved in the kitchen and restaurant design. Since 2019, I have held the position of Executive Chef. From the very beginning, our goal was to have Kollázs in the top 20 restaurants in Hungary every year. My role is not only to manage the kitchen, but also to develop the menu concept, source ingredients and lead the team.
Tell us about the kitchen team! How do you work together, what is your professional approach?
We are a stable, close-knit team where everyone knows exactly what they are doing. Consistent quality and continuous improvement are important to us. French bistro cuisine requires precision and discipline, and we keep this in mind.
Putting together a menu always requires a serious concept. How has the menu changed over the years and what principles have guided the current menu?
Two years ago, Kollázs was given a new lease of life when a brand new general manager arrived from the Four Seasons in Paris, where it has six Michelin-starred restaurants. This ensured that we came under the guidance of a professional with a strong understanding of gastronomy. The aim of the new management was to create a more streamlined brasserie image. The menu at Kollázs was accordingly based on classic French cuisine, and the domestic flavour that had been present until then was eliminated. At the same time, we created a small Hungarian section on the menu, aimed specifically at foreign guests looking for traditional Hungarian flavours. We have also taken into account the needs of our hotel guests, which is how we developed the current concept of the restaurant. In addition to authentic French flavours, we also offer traditional Hungarian dishes for foreign guests.
The Michelin recommendation is a huge recognition. What do you think are the key factors that have helped achieve this success and what role do the ingredients play in it?
A consistent concept, consistent performance and high quality materials. Michelin places great importance on a restaurant's image and identity being clearly recognisable, and we work on this every day. One of our key ingredients is the beef cheek from Matusz-Vad, which is the basis of our Burgundy beef dish. It's extremely crumbly and succulent, and even our French director says he rarely eats such excellent Burgundy beef. Beef cheeks are therefore of the utmost importance to us, as they come from Matusz-Vad in consistently high quality. I've also tried varieties from the French market, but I couldn't find any better.
What role do the ingredients supplied by Matusz-Vad play in the operation of the restaurant and is there any dish in particular that you would highlight?
They supply us with high quality ingredients that are essential to our menu. One of our most important items is beef colour next to the beef cheek, which we also source from Matusz-Vad. It is a steak raised on Argentinian grain, the basis of the classic Tournedos Rossini. The dish is made with a borderie sauce, a red wine and beef stock enriched with beef broth, topped with sautéed mushrooms, fried duck liver and truffles. The duck liver is also a speciality on our menu, as not only is it a key ingredient of Tournedos Rossini, but the duck liver terrine is a dish that has been on the menu for 10 years with an unchanged recipe. The seasonal side dish may change, but the terrine itself and the quality of the ingredients remain constant. This shows how important the reliability and premium quality of the ingredients are to us. The success of the Collage is partly due to these partnerships.
Every day, Árpád Győrffy and his team at Kollázs work to give guests a true Parisian bistro experience, where sophisticated flavours and top-quality ingredients meet. The Michelin recommendation is not only a recognition but also a responsibility to continue to perform at the highest level. And the goal remains the same: to keep the Kollázs name among the best Hungarian restaurants.
